The Quandary of Morocco’s War Memorials

The Quandary of Morocco’s War Memorials

What should be done with colonial statues honoring Moroccans forced to fight a European war?   The war memorial was cold and wet, but the warm pulse of history throbbed rhythmically within it.  I had driven nearly an hour from my hotel in Paris just to touch...
A Seductive Desert Fantasy

A Seductive Desert Fantasy

I am in a plane heading to Casablanca.   Seated behind me, four compatriots loudly discuss their vacation plans across the aisle separating them.  I note three European-Americans and one Asian-American. I recognize something of myself in them. Like me,...
An Unanticipated Ending

An Unanticipated Ending

I had wanted—in fact, deliberately outlined—a triumphant ending to my book tracing Edith Wharton’s trip to Morocco in 1917. As a grad student in the 1990s and early-2000s, I had lived in Morocco and France and traveled to Egypt, Tunisia, Mali and Mauritania. This...